What even is Ozark cuisine? Meet the people demanding respect for this region’s food and history

Missouri’s Ozark Mountains are known for their lush wilderness and popular tourist destinations. But what about the food? Like much of Ozark culture, the cuisine remains deeply misunderstood and shrouded in stereotypes. From deep in the forest to upscale restaurants, these food lovers are preserving the Ozarks' past and charting its future.
During a recent dinner at Bulrush in St. Louis, Missouri, diners looked on as a circle of chefs carefully plated vibrant dish after vibrant dish.

Bison and venison meatballs with mushroom marinara. An acorn-shaped bowl filled with grilled kohlrabi and hen of the wood mushrooms. Roasted sunchoke goat cheese cheesecake with pickled vegetables.

This is not the food most people would imagine when they think about the Ozarks — and for chef Rob Connoley, that’s the point.