Posted on Jun 21, 2015
Motorcycle maintenance tips: Do you have any to share?
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So, this is a spot to post any tips you have about taking care of your ride - specifically, your scooter, sled, crotch rocket, rice burner, geezer glide, or road sofa... you know - your MOTORCYCLE! Here's my first tip:
Got chrome? If you do, and you have problems getting road tar and bugs off of it no matter how hard you scrub, then this is for you:
Go find Abraham Lincoln - you know, a penny. Now use it to lightly scrub the bug/tar/dirt that is on your precious chrome audio bass thunder pipes... or any other chrome (and ONLY chrome) that you have!
Because copper is softer than chrome, it WILL NOT scratch the chrome, but is hard enough to get the dastardly insect off your pipes!
Don't believe me? Go try it out somewhere where it won't be noticed (like right next to where the pipe comes out of your thunder maker's engine). You'll be surprised!
Got chrome? If you do, and you have problems getting road tar and bugs off of it no matter how hard you scrub, then this is for you:
Go find Abraham Lincoln - you know, a penny. Now use it to lightly scrub the bug/tar/dirt that is on your precious chrome audio bass thunder pipes... or any other chrome (and ONLY chrome) that you have!
Because copper is softer than chrome, it WILL NOT scratch the chrome, but is hard enough to get the dastardly insect off your pipes!
Don't believe me? Go try it out somewhere where it won't be noticed (like right next to where the pipe comes out of your thunder maker's engine). You'll be surprised!
Posted >1 y ago
Responses: 28
Number 1: Battery tender. Got to have one to keep your bikes battery fully charged. Especially during deployments and/or long periods of time when your bike is not in use. They have an easy attachment that hooks to your battery, it hangs just below your seat tucked inside when not in use. Pull out the easy connect and plug in your battery tender when parked, so that you do not worry about having a dead battery when it is time to ride.
Number 2: The first time I took my bike to the Harley dealer for its 1,000 mile maintanance, they charged me almost $300. I flipped a lid and asked what exactly did they do. They said, we can give you a print out. I read the print out of the maintanance they performed and I told the Harley Dealer guy, I could have done this. I keep that print out and perform that routine maintanance myself. Change oil, oil filter, air filter, check air, brake fluid, bolts for tightness, look for leaks, check battery, check brake pads, normal common sense things that any person can do at home. Maybe call a buddy to help you the first time or check online (you tube) you will be surprised what you can accomplish yourself and not pay the dealer $100 a hour for their labor.
Number 3: Other cosmetic or performance upgrades you can do yourself as well. Lowering kit front and back, easy look online/you tube. Air filter same; handle bars same; saddle bags same; chrome, lights, etc. same. Save yourself the labor costs and do it yourself.
Number 4: know your limitations. I do not change my tires, I let a professional do that. Engine work, valves, timing chain, I take to a trusted mechanic. I research first, so that I am somewhat a little more educated on what they may actually do to my bike. But I let them tell me what they need to do, if I think it is outrageous, i'll call them on it.
Number 5: call the dealer if you want to do something to your bike. They will tell you how many hours of labor they will charge you. I changed my handlebars on my 2014 ultra limited, it took me around two hours. The dealer wanted to charge me 8 hours. I'm no expert, but that sounded to me quite excessive.
Good luck and enjoy, that's what its all about. Ride Safe.
Number 2: The first time I took my bike to the Harley dealer for its 1,000 mile maintanance, they charged me almost $300. I flipped a lid and asked what exactly did they do. They said, we can give you a print out. I read the print out of the maintanance they performed and I told the Harley Dealer guy, I could have done this. I keep that print out and perform that routine maintanance myself. Change oil, oil filter, air filter, check air, brake fluid, bolts for tightness, look for leaks, check battery, check brake pads, normal common sense things that any person can do at home. Maybe call a buddy to help you the first time or check online (you tube) you will be surprised what you can accomplish yourself and not pay the dealer $100 a hour for their labor.
Number 3: Other cosmetic or performance upgrades you can do yourself as well. Lowering kit front and back, easy look online/you tube. Air filter same; handle bars same; saddle bags same; chrome, lights, etc. same. Save yourself the labor costs and do it yourself.
Number 4: know your limitations. I do not change my tires, I let a professional do that. Engine work, valves, timing chain, I take to a trusted mechanic. I research first, so that I am somewhat a little more educated on what they may actually do to my bike. But I let them tell me what they need to do, if I think it is outrageous, i'll call them on it.
Number 5: call the dealer if you want to do something to your bike. They will tell you how many hours of labor they will charge you. I changed my handlebars on my 2014 ultra limited, it took me around two hours. The dealer wanted to charge me 8 hours. I'm no expert, but that sounded to me quite excessive.
Good luck and enjoy, that's what its all about. Ride Safe.
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1SG David Lopez
SFC (Join to see) - Nice, that's an awesome dealer. My dealer is pretty good, the owner actually encourages me to try things myself, thats how he did it. The dealer I spoke bad of is near my brother-in-laws house. He was invited to a invite only open house, we got a self guided tour of the service department and got to talk to the techs and ask questions. Meanwhile my brother-in-laws bike was there, a 2003, $5000 later, he got his bike back.
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TSgt David L.
1SG David Lopez - I'm not an HD Tech, meaning I don't work at a dealership. There are some shops that will charge you 8 hours because the book says so. If management wants it that way then it will be done. I would like to think that you charge the time it took and no more. I do my work cheaper and by the job. Basically treat folks how you want to be treated.
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1SG David Lopez
TSgt David L. - That is excellent work ethic. I am sure that your clients are happy and satisfied with your work. Keep up the great work. BTW, where are you in case I need a honest mechanic. Thanks...
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TSgt David L.
1SG David Lopez I am from Montana but will travel for the right price! LOL I am a MMI Harley Early and Late model graduate and will do anything but flywheels. If you want to do cams I Have all the bearing removal and installation tools.
Cheers, Dave
Cheers, Dave
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#1 buy a quality manual, at least read the general part of it which gives you a description of how your bike works as well as what fluids go where....
#2 do not clean (or use a bike cover) just after you've ridden the bike...let it cool off
#3 invest in good cleaners, I use S-100, buy it directly from the Harley shop (if someone knows where to buy it cheaper, let me know)
#4 sign up with an online forum, there are others that own similar bikes that are willing to share experience as far as what works and what to avoid for your particular make/model.
http://go.fixmyhog.com/email1b/?gclid=CLDaxO6gosYCFSjMtAoduYsFqw
#2 do not clean (or use a bike cover) just after you've ridden the bike...let it cool off
#3 invest in good cleaners, I use S-100, buy it directly from the Harley shop (if someone knows where to buy it cheaper, let me know)
#4 sign up with an online forum, there are others that own similar bikes that are willing to share experience as far as what works and what to avoid for your particular make/model.
http://go.fixmyhog.com/email1b/?gclid=CLDaxO6gosYCFSjMtAoduYsFqw
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TSgt David L.
Another big Roger that to the manual. It is the best money you can spend in a Harley dealership. I'm sure the other brands can vouch for them as well. As a certified Harley Tech, I'll tell you that a brand specific manual is hands down the best way to go. The Clymers/Haynes books are decent, especially if you already know what you are doing, but the detail needed to PROPERLY maintain your scoot comes from only one place. The guys that build them. PERIOD. IMO of course! LOL
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TSgt David L.
CSM Michael J. Uhlig I would add Use GOOD oil and change it often. I run Redline synthetic in all three holes and change it every 2,000 to 2,500 miles. Harley is an air cooled engine and oil is cheap insurance. Make it last...
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I'll take this one further... If you have a question post it.. I build and repair bikes for a living and have for a number of years. My wife is the service manager for a 6 brand dealer, my youngest son a lead Tech at that same dealer. If I don't know, I won't BS, and can likely point you in a direction to find out the needed answer.
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SGM Erik Marquez
And to add...
Use a battery Tender.
Use a gas treatment in your fuel unless you will be going though that tank in a single ride.
Prep the bike before storage..
Those three things are common issue causing areas we see on a bike.
Use a battery Tender.
Use a gas treatment in your fuel unless you will be going though that tank in a single ride.
Prep the bike before storage..
Those three things are common issue causing areas we see on a bike.
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